October 10th and 11th, 2011

When I had talked about changing my route with Sergio, he showed me pictures of the cathedral in Morelia, all lit up at night. It was stunning. There were a lot of places he thought I should go and see, enough to spend years in Mexico. I just picked a couple, made notes on the rest, and tried to keep up.

I headed inland from the coast under overcast skies. I was into the mountains almost immediately.


The road was in good condition, and I made decent time. In any case I wasn’t in that much of a hurry.

For a time in Puerto Vallarta I had wanted to go to Guadalajara, and had even bought a city map so I could be able to get around in the city. But the Pan American games were starting there in a few days, and I had heard traffic was already getting heavy. In the end I decided to save it for later and stayed just to the south of it.


It took me two days to get to Morelia from Puerto Vallarta, and I had already decided to stay in the city somewhere so it would be easier to walk around. The cathedral, which is why I had gone to Morelia, was lit at night and that was supposed to be the time to go and see it. I had found a hostel which was cheap and well located, and then managed to find it in real life as well (something of a surprise).

I haven’t stayed at many hostels. In truth this was my first one. It was a very nice place, but the vibe was all wrong for me. And the band, that played rather late, was also rather loud. Maybe I am just not a hostel person.

I had arrived in town early enough to go for a walk.


then I found somewhere to enjoy dinner while the sun set.

Like most places I’ve been in Mexico, once the sun goes down the whole place comes alive. but I was mostly interested in the Cathedral, and walked back to the square. I wasn’t disappointed.

First – day time


Pretty impressive already.

Then, night time –


Like anyone who has worked on stage or screen can tell you, its all how you light it.

I stayed in the square for a while, listening to local music and watching the flow of people, then headed back to find out I wasn’t allowed to go to sleep until the band was done playing.

In the morning I packed up (I hadn’t unpacked much, to be honest), and headed for old Mexico, the land where it was still mostly Indigenous people and culture, starting at a town called Oaxaca.

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